Pet Product Design: How Scratch Square Was Designed and Made

A pet product has to survive teeth, claws and a dishwasher, and still be cheap enough to sell. Here is how the Scratch Square dog toy was designed, tooled and launched.

August 22, 202611 min read

Konstantin Dolgan

Written by Konstantin Dolgan, Ph.D., NPDP

Founder & CEO, Product Development Engineer

Published August 22, 2026

Pet product design is industrial design under animal load: the product is used by an animal that chews, claws and drools on it, bought by a human who cares about looks and price, and sold at a retail price that leaves very little room in the bill of materials. The design work is mostly about surviving all three at once. The clearest way to show what that means is to walk through one product we designed and took to production.

9-15 mo
Idea to shelf for a moulded pet product
$8k-$35k
Typical tooling spend per part
2 users
The animal that abuses it, the owner who buys it
Scratch Square pet nail-filing toy designed and prepared for manufacturing by LA NPDT
Scratch Square: a treat dispenser with abrasive faces that file a dog's nails as it plays.

The product: a toy that files a dog's nails

De'Vora, a pet products company, came to us with Scratch Square - a multi-functional toy that combines a treat dispenser with abrasive surfaces, so a dog naturally files its own nails while playing with it. The concept was sound and the client had a clear picture of the product. What they needed was to get it made: a design that could be moulded and assembled at a price that worked, and tooling that a first-time brand could afford.

Scratch Square went on to become a bestseller, sold through Amazon, Chewy, QVC, Walmart and Tractor Supply, and the line has since expanded into different sizes, replacement pads and a cat version.

What makes pet products harder than they look

Constraint
Why it bites
What it forces in the design
The user is an animal
No instructions, no care, full body weight and teeth
No small removable parts, no pinch points, no brittle sections
The buyer is a human
Bought on shelf appeal and story
Colour, form and packaging matter as much as function
Retail price ceiling
Pet aisle prices are set by category, not by your costs
Bill of materials and tooling must be designed down from day one
Cleaning and saliva
Products get chewed, soaked and washed
Material choice, sealed assemblies, no absorbent joints
Safety expectations
Choking, ingestion and abrasion risks
Wall thickness, part retention, tested materials

The hard part: a complex rubber shape and one very awkward mould

Scratch Square is made of several components - a rubber enclosure and internals. The rubber part had a complex shape of the kind that would normally be split into several separate pieces, or made in one piece with an expensive multi-action mould. Either route adds cost: more parts means more assembly, and a complicated tool means a bigger cheque before the first unit is sold.

The real obstacle was buried inside the geometry. The main cavity that forms the internal compartments needs an inner core, and that core has to come out after moulding. On Scratch Square, the side handles blocked access from the sides, so the obvious removal directions were unavailable. A part you cannot get out of the tool is not a manufacturable part, no matter how well it performs.

Scratch Square rubber enclosure showing the side handles that restricted mould access

How we solved it

  • Designed the moulds for the original version of the toy first, so the problems were visible in tooling terms rather than argued about in the abstract.
  • Ran a manufacturability pass over that design and marked every area that would cause trouble in production, then modified the geometry to remove those areas.
  • Made small design changes purely to help manufacturing and assembly - the kind of edits an end user never notices and a tooling quote notices immediately.
  • Worked directly with the manufacturer on the core-removal problem and developed a creative forming and extraction process that got the part out of the mould without adding tool actions.
  • Simplified the moulds as a result, which is where the tooling saving actually came from.

That last point is the one worth repeating. The saving did not come from re-quoting the supplier. It came from changing the part so that a simpler tool could make it. Unit cost and tooling cost are decided in CAD, not in negotiation.

The result

Optimising the design for manufacturing and assembly and simplifying the moulds let De'Vora produce the first batch of Scratch Square with minimum upfront investment. That meant they could launch on a budget and test the market quickly, with the risk kept small - which is exactly what a new pet brand needs before it commits to volume. The market answered: the product is now stocked by the major pet retailers and has grown into a product line.

Production Scratch Square pet product in use

What to take from this if you are designing a pet product

If your product...
Do this before you quote tooling
Has handles, undercuts or hollow internals
Have a tooling engineer mark the mould directions early - blocked cores are the classic pet-toy trap
Is made of several moulded parts
Ask whether two parts can become one, and whether any fastener can become a snap fit
Is chewed or clawed
Choose materials for tear strength and abrasion, not just hardness
Has to hit a shelf price
Model the bill of materials at your target volume before finalising the form
Is a first product for the brand
Design so the first tool is cheap and simple; buy the fancy tool once demand is proven

Frequently asked questions

What pet products have to survive that human products do not

A pet product has two users with opposite interests. The animal chews, drags, claws and swallows; the owner buys, cleans, stores and replaces it. Almost every design failure we see in this category comes from optimising for the buyer and forgetting the animal, or from making something the animal loves that no owner would put in a living room.

Requirement
Why it breaks products
Design response
Chew and claw loads
Point loads far above human handling; thin edges become failure points
Thicker sections at edges, no exposed thin ribs, no glued seams in reach
Ingestion safety
Small detachable parts are a vet visit
No parts smaller than the animal's mouth; captive or moulded-in features only
Cleaning
Food residue in blind pockets ruins repeat purchase
Open geometry, draft that lets residue fall out, dishwasher-safe material choice
Material safety
Owners read the packaging closely
Food-contact grade polymers, documented supplier certificates
Retail shelf
Buyers judge in three seconds through a hang-hole card
Silhouette readable from the front, colour that survives store lighting

What developing a product like this typically costs

Ranges below are what a moulded consumer pet product of this complexity usually takes, assuming one part family and no electronics. They are planning figures, not a quote - the honest driver of the total is how many times the geometry changes after tooling is cut.

Stage
What you get
Typical cost
Typical time
Concept and industrial design
Sketches, form direction, chosen concept
$3k - $9k
2 - 4 weeks
Engineering and CAD
Production-intent 3D model, part breakdown
$6k - $18k
3 - 6 weeks
Prototypes
Printed and finished parts for fit and user testing
$1.5k - $6k
1 - 3 weeks
Design for manufacturing
Draft, wall thickness, mould-flow and ejection review
$3k - $8k
1 - 3 weeks
Tooling
Steel or aluminium mould, first shots
$8k - $35k per tool
6 - 12 weeks

Checklist: before you commit to a mould

  • Every external surface has draft, and you know which face carries the parting line.
  • The core can be pulled without a side action, or you have priced the side action.
  • Wall thickness is uniform enough that you are not designing in sink marks.
  • Part count is the minimum that still assembles - each extra part is another tool.
  • The animal has physically handled a printed part, not just a rendering.
  • Material has documented food-contact compliance from the actual supplier.
  • Packaging geometry is fixed, because it changes the product's outer dimensions.

Choosing a manufacturer for a pet product

The moulder you pick shapes the design as much as the designer does. Pet products sit awkwardly between toys and housewares, so a factory that has only made one of those will apply the wrong instincts - toy factories over-engineer safety features that add cost, housewares factories under-estimate chew loads. Ask for parts they have made in the same material and the same wall thickness, not a general catalogue.

Question
A good answer sounds like
A warning sign
Have you moulded this material before?
Names the grade and the supplier
Says any polymer is fine
Who owns the tool?
You own it, and it can be moved
Tool stays with them, no drawings
What is your DFM feedback on this file?
A marked-up list of specific concerns
No comments at all
What is the first-article process?
Dimensional report against your drawing
We will send you some samples
What happens if the tool needs a change?
Quoted rates for common modifications
We will look at it then

Five mistakes we see in pet product briefs

  • Designing for the photograph. A form that renders beautifully often has thin edges an animal removes in a week.
  • Treating cleaning as a detail. Any cavity that traps food becomes the reason the product is not repurchased.
  • Skipping animal testing. Owners give polite feedback; animals do not, and only the animal reveals failure modes.
  • One size for all breeds. A product sized for a mid-size dog is a hazard for a small one and a toy for a large one.
  • Locking packaging last. Hang-tab, carton and shelf constraints routinely force late changes to the product itself.

Where the money goes wrong on a pet product

Budget damage in this category is rarely one large mistake. It is a sequence of small deferrals, each of which looks reasonable at the time and each of which lands on the tooling invoice. The table sets out the ones we see most often and what each costs to fix at the point it is normally discovered.

Issue
Cost if caught in CAD
Cost if caught after tooling
Undercut requiring a side action
Free - redraw the feature
$3k - $9k tool rework
Wall thickness causing sink marks
Free
$2k - $6k plus re-shots
Part too large for the retail carton
Free
New packaging plus possible tool change
Material swapped for compliance
Hours of engineering
Shrinkage changes - tool may need re-cutting
Adding a second size
Days of engineering
A second tool at full price

How to phase the spend if your budget is tight

Founders funding a first product themselves do not need to commit the whole programme at once. Phasing it into three fundable chunks keeps the option to stop cheaply, and each chunk produces something you can show to an investor or a retailer.

  • Phase one - concept, one printed prototype and a costed bill of materials. Enough to test the idea on real animals and to talk to buyers.
  • Phase two - production-intent engineering, DFM review and a moulder quote. Enough to know the real unit cost before any tooling money moves.
  • Phase three - tooling, first articles and the first production run. Only started once the design is frozen and the price works.

What to measure after the product ships

The design work does not end at the first production run. Pet products generate unusually honest feedback - the animal either uses it or ignores it - and the first six months of returns, reviews and replacement requests tell you exactly which decision to revisit in version two. Set up the measurement before launch, because retrospective data is guesswork.

Signal
What it usually means
Design response
Returns citing durability
A section or edge is too thin for the load
Thicken the failing area; consider a tougher grade
Reviews mentioning cleaning
A pocket or seam traps residue
Open the geometry or change the parting line
Low repeat purchase
Product works but is not loved
Revisit the animal's interaction, not the styling
Size complaints
One size is serving two breeds badly
Add a size before adding features
Damage in transit
Packaging protects the shelf, not the product
Revise the insert or carton, not the part

Sustainability choices that are worth making

Pet owners increasingly read the material claim, and most of the meaningful improvements in this category cost little if they are decided early. Recycled content in the packaging, a single-polymer product that can actually be recycled, and a replaceable wear part instead of a disposable product are all easier to design in than to retrofit. Claims must be evidenced by supplier documentation - unsupported wording is a legal risk, not a marketing benefit.

  • Design in one polymer family where possible, so the product is recyclable in practice.
  • Make the wear part replaceable, and sell the replacement.
  • Specify recycled content in packaging, where certification is straightforward.
  • Avoid glued dissimilar materials that cannot be separated at end of life.
  • Keep every environmental claim tied to a document you actually hold.

Terms your moulder will use

Most of the friction in a first tooling conversation is vocabulary. These are the words that come up in every DFM review of a moulded pet product, in plain language.

Term
What it means
Why it matters to you
Draft
A slight taper on vertical faces
Without it the part will not release from the mould
Parting line
Where the two halves of the mould meet
It will be visible on the finished product
Side action
A moving part of the tool that forms an undercut
Adds thousands to the tool and time to each cycle
Sink mark
A dimple over a thick section
Cosmetic defect caused by uneven wall thickness
Ejector pin
Pushes the part out of the mould
Leaves small circular witness marks
First article
The first parts off the new tool
Your chance to check the tool against the drawing

If you are starting your own pet product

The sequence below is the shortest honest route from an idea to something you can sell, and it is the order we would run it in. Each step produces a decision, not a document.

  • Write down the animal behaviour you are designing for, and the owner problem you are solving. If those two conflict, resolve it now.
  • Search the market and the patent landscape before you love the idea.
  • Sketch three genuinely different directions and choose one on evidence.
  • Print one and put it in front of an animal for a week.
  • Engineer it properly, with a moulder involved while the CAD is still editable.
  • Freeze it, tool it, and spend the tooling lead time on packaging and listings.

If you would rather not run that alone, our discovery and prototype engagement covers the first four steps, and the prototype cost calculator gives a figure for your own specification in a couple of minutes.

How much does it cost to make a prototype of a pet product?

A printed and finished appearance prototype is usually $300 - $1,500 for a single part; a functional version in a representative material, made by casting or machining, runs $800 - $4,000. The variables are size, finish and how many iterations you build before you are satisfied - the material itself is rarely the expensive part.

Can I design a pet product myself and only outsource engineering?

Yes, and it is a sensible way to control cost if you have a clear form idea. What you are buying is the production-intent engineering: wall sections, draft, part breakdown, material specification and the drawing package a factory can quote. Bring your concept as sketches or a rough model plus the constraints you know, and expect the geometry to change once manufacturing reality is applied to it.

How do I protect a pet product design from copies?

Design patents on the visual form, utility protection on any genuine mechanism, and a registered trademark on the brand are the three legal layers, and none of them stops a determined copyist alone. The practical defences are commercial: own your tool, hold the supplier relationship, keep improving the product, and build a brand customers ask for by name. Start with a prior art search so you know what is already claimed.

Should I sell direct or through retail first?

Direct first, in most cases. It gives you margin, customer contact and honest early feedback at a volume you can actually supply, and it produces the review count and sell-through data that retail buyers ask for anyway. Retail is the right second step once the product is proven, because it demands packaging, case packs, lead times and terms that are expensive to get wrong on a first version.

Can I make a pet product without injection molding?

For a first few hundred units, yes. Cast urethane and silicone parts, CNC-machined components and sewn or extruded constructions all reach a small market without a steel tool. They cost more per unit and finish less consistently, but they let you sell, gather reviews and prove demand before spending on a mould - see low-volume manufacturing for how those runs work.

What safety standards apply to pet products?

Pet products are not regulated as strictly as children's products in the US, which does not mean the risk is lower - it shifts liability onto you.

Retailers usually impose their own requirements, and the practical baseline is food-contact grade materials with supplier documentation, no small detachable parts, and a documented reason for every material choice.

Confirm the specific requirements with your intended retailer before tooling, because their list is the one that decides whether you can sell.

What material is best for a chew-resistant pet product?

There is no single answer, but the shortlist is narrow: reinforced nylon and TPE for durability with some give, food-contact grade polypropylene for rigid low-cost parts, and platinum-cure silicone where softness matters.

What decides it is the failure mode you are designing against - abrasion, tearing or cracking each favour a different family. Confirm the grade with your moulder before the geometry is frozen, because wall thickness has to be tuned to the material.

How many prototypes do I need before tooling a pet product?

Three rounds is typical: one to check size and form in the hand and the home, one for the animal to actually use, and one made in a material close to production so the failure mode is realistic. Printed parts flatter a design - they are stiffer and rougher than moulded ones - so the last round should be cast or machined in something representative.

How long does it take to bring a pet product to market?

Nine to fifteen months is realistic from first sketch to product on a retail shelf. Design and engineering take three to five months, tooling six to twelve weeks after the geometry is frozen, and the retail side - packaging, certifications, listings and purchase orders - usually adds another quarter that founders forget to plan for. See how long prototyping takes for the earlier part of that timeline.

Do I need a patent before designing a pet product?

You need to know the landscape before spending on tooling, which is not the same as holding a granted patent. A prior art search early tells you whether the mechanism is already owned. A design patent on the finished form is usually filed once the industrial design is settled, because the drawings have to match what you sell.

How much does it cost to design a pet product?

Design and engineering for a moulded pet product typically runs in the low tens of thousands of dollars, with tooling as a separate line item that depends heavily on how complex the mould has to be. Simplifying the part is usually the cheapest way to lower the tooling bill, because tool cost tracks the number of actions and the difficulty of releasing the part.

What is the biggest cost driver in a pet product?

Tooling complexity. Undercuts, side actions and blocked cores add tool cost and cycle time, and they are usually avoidable if manufacturability is reviewed while the geometry is still editable. On Scratch Square the whole saving came from making the mould simpler rather than negotiating a lower quote.

Do I need a patent before designing a pet product?

Not before design, but search prior art early so you do not engineer around a feature you cannot own. Many pet products are protected by design patents covering the form rather than utility patents covering the function, so the shape you settle on has commercial consequences.

Can a small pet brand afford injection tooling?

Often yes, if the part is designed for a simple tool. Scratch Square launched with minimum upfront investment because the mould was simplified before it was cut, which let the brand test the market first and buy capacity later once demand was proven.

See the full project write-up in the Scratch Square case study, or read how an automated interactive pet toy was developed. If you have a pet product at the sketch or prototype stage, our product design and prototyping teams can tell you what it will take to make it - and you can get a first number from the prototype cost calculator.

Related project stories

Compression molding vs injection moldingchoosing the process behind a moulded part.

Frequently asked questions

How we solved it?

Designed the moulds for the original version of the toy first, so the problems were visible in tooling terms rather than argued about in the abstract. Ran a manufacturability pass over that design and marked every area that would cause trouble in production, then modified the geometry to remove those areas.

Made small design changes purely to help manufacturing and assembly - the kind of edits an end user never notices and a tooling quote notices immediately.

Worked directly with the manufacturer on the core-removal problem and developed a creative forming and extraction process that got the part out of the mould without adding tool actions. Simplified the moulds as a result, which is where the tooling saving actually came from. That last point is the one worth repeating. The saving did not come from re-quoting the supplier.

What pet products have to survive that human products do not?

A pet product has two users with opposite interests. The animal chews, drags, claws and swallows; the owner buys, cleans, stores and replaces it. Almost every design failure we see in this category comes from optimising for the buyer and forgetting the animal, or from making something the animal loves that no owner would put in a living room.

What developing a product like this typically costs?

Ranges below are what a moulded consumer pet product of this complexity usually takes, assuming one part family and no electronics. They are planning figures, not a quote - the honest driver of the total is how many times the geometry changes after tooling is cut.

Where the money goes wrong on a pet product?

Budget damage in this category is rarely one large mistake. It is a sequence of small deferrals, each of which looks reasonable at the time and each of which lands on the tooling invoice. The table sets out the ones we see most often and what each costs to fix at the point it is normally discovered.

How to phase the spend if your budget is tight?

Founders funding a first product themselves do not need to commit the whole programme at once. Phasing it into three fundable chunks keeps the option to stop cheaply, and each chunk produces something you can show to an investor or a retailer. Phase one - concept, one printed prototype and a costed bill of materials.

Enough to test the idea on real animals and to talk to buyers. Phase two - production-intent engineering, DFM review and a moulder quote. Enough to know the real unit cost before any tooling money moves.

Phase three - tooling, first articles and the first production run. Only started once the design is frozen and the price works.

What to measure after the product ships?

The design work does not end at the first production run. Pet products generate unusually honest feedback - the animal either uses it or ignores it - and the first six months of returns, reviews and replacement requests tell you exactly which decision to revisit in version two. Set up the measurement before launch, because retrospective data is guesswork.

How much does it cost to make a prototype of a pet product?

A printed and finished appearance prototype is usually $300 - $1,500 for a single part; a functional version in a representative material, made by casting or machining, runs $800 - $4,000. The variables are size, finish and how many iterations you build before you are satisfied - the material itself is rarely the expensive part.

Can I design a pet product myself and only outsource engineering?

Yes, and it is a sensible way to control cost if you have a clear form idea. What you are buying is the production-intent engineering: wall sections, draft, part breakdown, material specification and the drawing package a factory can quote. Bring your concept as sketches or a rough model plus the constraints you know, and expect the geometry to change once manufacturing reality is applied to it.

How do I protect a pet product design from copies?

Design patents on the visual form, utility protection on any genuine mechanism, and a registered trademark on the brand are the three legal layers, and none of them stops a determined copyist alone. The practical defences are commercial: own your tool, hold the supplier relationship, keep improving the product, and build a brand customers ask for by name. Start with a prior art search so you know what is already claimed.

Should I sell direct or through retail first?

Direct first, in most cases. It gives you margin, customer contact and honest early feedback at a volume you can actually supply, and it produces the review count and sell-through data that retail buyers ask for anyway. Retail is the right second step once the product is proven, because it demands packaging, case packs, lead times and terms that are expensive to get wrong on a first version.

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